🚴 Personal Cycling

It’s known as “the plug”

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I’ve finally invested in a new bike.

My son is moving back to London and is taking his bike which I’ve been using for the last couple of years. It’s a medium frame and I’m not a medium guy so it’s never been perfectly comfortable.

His bike is a Whyte hybrid with front suspension and it’s very well made and has been very reliable so I went for the same make but this time I complete commuter bike.

This is a Whyte Shoreditch (hark at Bletch getting down with the hipsters), this time it’s an XL frame and on the brief ride I had today feels so much better.

I’m going to be working three days a week on the Isle of Wight from September so am hoping to ‘commute’ via the bike and ferry - staying over a couple of nights. I figure I’ll need something to get me from pub to pub.

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Was really enjoying my cycling doing 400 in April, 500 in May and 400 in June, but then the running took over and I managed to run 125 miles in July.

The weather really is not helping as I am a fair weather cyclist, but love running in the rain.

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A loop to Romsey.

But what to do when I got here?

Dark revolution Sonic.

I might be suffering from first pint syndrome but fuck me it tastes good.

https://twitter.com/AwardsDarwin/status/1161605732548132871?s=20

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UPDATE:

Well, this is interesting (to me and, maybe one, maybe two other Sotonians if they are in a particularly geeky mood).

The new bike is SOO much quicker than the old one.

Strava told me that on a run that I’ve done probably 10+ times, I got 11 personal best segments.

I don’t know if it’s because it’s lighter, has better geometry or gearing, or just the fact that my long legs work better on an XL frame but I wasn’t even going for it and I’ve smashed my previous best.

Night and day.

Plus on one of the longer segments, my previous personal best was 5 min 03 and I know I was going for it when I set that time. My time yesterday was 5 min 04 and I got stuck behind a mother and child on one stretch and was delayed for, maybe, 20 seconds - and as I say I wasn’t really going for it.

I’m stunned at the difference in speed - and I can only imagine that a proper racing bike would be even better.

And one with 2 wheels could be better still.

It’s called “new bike syndrome” you tend to have a surge of enthusiasm which translates to higher speeds.

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Lighter helps massively

My carbon bike goes like stink

Which is odd as I make up a massive percentage of the Kg I’m propelling so whilst the change in weight of the bike is significant, ~14Kg to ~10Kg, the percentage saving overall is minor.

Yeah, could be but I wasn’t feeling like I was particularly going for it.

Good input, Kenny.

Seriously, it’s the tyres and probably the gearing. More likely the tyres, @Map-Of-Tasmania would be able to explain it better.

What did you have before gearing and tyre wise?

My CX is slower than my road bike mainly because of the gearing…

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Yep, tyres am the thing, or certainly a very major thing. Skinny, smooth tyres running at the correct pressure (somewhere north of 100psi f’ sure) generate very little rolling resistance. Every time I see (or rather hear) some poor fool riding a mountain bike with massive, knobbly tyres on the road I pity that fool (though they may be en route to a wonderful off-road ride, I suppose).

Also, if your posture on the new bike is lower (bar height relative to saddle height being the key factor here) you’ll be more aerodynamic. Well, less non-aerodynamic, anyway.

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Yeah, you might be on to something with the tyres. They were similar width but the old ones were more cyclocross and these are more road/trail.

Gearing is different as I have 10 gears on the back but a single cog on the front.

The rear system is really wide apparently 11-42 with 44 on the chain ring. I’ve no idea what that means in terms of gearing.

The old bike had 3 x 9 gears.

I’m probably more upright on this bike as it’s the right size for me whereas the old one made me hunch over more.

A bit of advice. If you don’t already have such a thing, buy yourself a track pump, preferably with a pressure gauge attached. Check the recommended pressure on the tyres and keep them there or thereabouts. Not only will they be at their most efficient for riding, they’ll also grip much better and resist punctures much better too.

A track pump makes maintaining tyre pressures a doddle.

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The problem with 3x9 is that there is cross over in ratios so you don’t actually get 27 gears . The 11x42 is the new way apparently it makes gears shifting more efficient (only one chain ring)

As for tyres smooth is far better that big tread - but size is a different matter

On one bike I have 25mm at 100 psi and the fast bike has 32mm at 70-80 psi

Yeah, the shifting between the gears is really smooth and progressive and helps keep my legs moving at the same speed. Clever.

Why would the faster bike have lower pressure? And wider tyres for that matter?

These are 32mm and 120psi (if I remember correctly from the pre-delivery inspection sheet).

Out today for a ride with @Rallyboy late of this parish - RIP. :cry:

Going to show him what the Bletch quads can do around the mean streets of Wickham.

Cue sexual innuendo from @Goatboy.

Not sure re the tyres - however sometimes there is an accepted idea that means it’s never questioned

https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/road.cc/content/feature/182519-trend-spotting-why-you-need-switch-wider-tyres%3Famp

If you’re still running 23mm tyres on your road bike, it could be time you made the jump to 25s, or even wider

Lol. Make the jump from 23 to 25.

Wider tyre contact area

Narrow tyre contact area

…according to figures from another tyre brand, Continental, a 20mm tyre with 160psi, a 23mm tyre at 123psi, a 25mm tyre at 94psi and a 28mm tyre at 80psi all have the same rolling resistance.

…I realise I have a lot to learn about this modern cycling stuff.

Not least how to bleed hydraulic brakes!